Dear Sarge,

I recently inherited a sweet Polaris RZR 570 from my cousin as he died of Covid. It has almost-new Bighorn 2.0s and Bandit shocks. I love the straight-line performance, but in turns it wants to three-wheel, and I am afraid I will roll her! I have tried all the recommended fixes, including increasing preload and compression. It does help some, but at the expense of ride quality. I really don’t know what I am missing here. Now I am thinking tire roll, but I have seen other 570s with Bighorns and no one seems to have my problem. So, I am turning to you, Sarge, for help improving RZR 570 stability.

Larry Conway

Whitehall, Montana

Sorry for your loss, Private Corncob. While it was nice to be gifted a Zooter, you have to respect the limits of your 50-inch-wide machine and deal with what was done to it before you got it. Your problem with your Zooter is common to all the 570s when aftermarket piggyback shocks are installed. In the front, there is no problem. In the rear, there is an interference with the sway bar. Bandit knows this and installs a stiffer set of rear springs to offset the loss of the rear sway bar. If you check, you will see the rear sway bar is removed. There is no improving RZR 570 stability via preload, compression settings or spring swapping that will replace having a functioning rear sway bar. As I see it, Boot, you should check to see if your cousin still has the rear sway bar and install it after changing your rear shocks back to stock (if he still has them), or install an aftermarket shock without the piggyback, or install aftermarket shocks with remote reservoirs. That is the only true solution to stopping three-wheeling at speed in corners. See UTV Action’s full test on the RZR 570 here:  Good luck with your search, Boot. Dismissed!



Dear Sarge,

I have a 2016 1000 Polaris Turbo. It is not babied but well cared for. We have a recurring problem with the voltage regulators overheating and the connectors actually melting! We are currently on our fourth factory unit! Is there a way to cut the stator output so we don’t overload the regulators?

Chris Pierce

Prescott, Arizona

Private Earlobe, why did you wait to ask Sarge until you had burned up three regulators? Did you think it was just bad luck to burn up three units? One, maybe. Two, hmmm, what is wrong here? Three is a definite pattern, Boot! Better late than never, realizing you are in over your head. Your Zooter has the regulator mounted in the front, connected by a long cable to the stator in the rear. This creates heat. This heat needs to be bled off with fins and air flow. You need to relocate the regulator to the rear, like the XP 1000s do, and install a heavier-duty regulator with increased cooling to dissipate that heat better. I would direct you to Rick’s Motorsport Electrics’ fix for this problem here: Also, note that they have replacement connectors for any melted connectors you may have. Since you obviously enjoy repetition, I will be recommending you to the CO for “recycling,” so you get to enjoy basic training all over again! Dismissed!


Dear Sarge,

I have a 2018 Polaris RZR 900, and I have been fighting the dreaded misfire code 65590 for almost a year now. I followed everything Boss said in the August 2020 issue and had my dealer replace any worn clutch parts, the belt and spark plugs. I still get the misfire code that puts me in limp mode. Can you direct this frustrated recruit as to what to do next? FYI, Sarge, I have added 26x11x14 Terrabite tires, Elka suspension and an Evolution Powersports slip-on muffler, if that helps.

Carl Jacobson

Wheeling, West Virginia

Boot, even if you do everything right, you can still have the 65590 code. In this rare case, the old man was correct and your dealer did everything right except for one thing. The root of your 65590 code lies with the ECU reading the engine timing based on the rear axle speed and the cam position sensor. If your axle speed read against the cam position sensor isn’t what’s expected, you get a misfire code. As you have seen, a bad spark plug can cause it. A glazed belt can cause it. Low fuel pressure can cause it. Misaligned clutches can cause it. A worn clutch can cause it. Even the tread pattern on your Terrabite tires can cause it under the right conditions! And of course, the slip-on muffler, too! The fix that your dealer didn’t apply is the new updated factory ECU flash that lowers the system’s sensitivity to small discrepancies. Beyond that, you can have Gilomen Innovations re-flash your ECU to lower the system’s sensitivity to near zero to positively remove those false misfire error codes for good. As a side benefit, they claim a 10-horsepowere increase, cooler running engine, speed limiters disabled and many other items. See them here: https://gilomen Because you waited a year to contact Sarge, maybe you should be “recycled,” too! Laugh, Boot! Drop and count off 50 and laugh again, Boot! Dismissed! 

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