IMPROVING UTV INSTRUMENTS
I am the proud owner of a Can-Am Maverick X3 Turbo RR. I am trying to decide on a gauge cluster that shows boost and belt temperature. I would like your input on improving UTV instruments with a gauge cluster that doesn’t look like it was just stuck on, if you know what I mean. I would like something that looks integrated yet is easily readable without having to search the dash for it. I also really don’t want to be butchering my dash to install these gauges. I hope you can provide this recruit some guidance.
Private Roadkill, are we placing style over function? Your list of wants is very specific, but so is my PT, which we will get to shortly! If you are after a factory-installed look, with no dash cutting and is integrated, I can think of no better way of improving UTV instruments than the factory-installed instrument cluster with some re-programming to add your functions. Evo Powersports will reprogram your instrument cluster when you send it to them and, when reinstalled, will be just like the original, only better. See here: https://evopowersports.com/products/
2020-can-am-maverick-x3-dash-cluster-reflash-with-boost-afr-and-belt-temp. Now, for your very specific PT instructions, Boot—25 push-ups, 25 sit-ups and 25 pull-ups. And, if it takes you over four minutes, do it again! You can see UTV Action’s full test of the new X3 Turbo RR with Smart-Shox here: 2021 CAN-AM X3 MAX X RS SMART-SHOX TEST | UTV Action Magazine Dismissed!
I CAN’T SEE WHEN I BACK UP
I purchased a pair of 10-watt LED lights that I intend to use for reverse or backup lights. I purchased a four-prong relay, but I am confused as to how to wire it up. On 110-volt AC relays, the terminals are clearly marked, but not on this 12-volt relay. Is there someplace that clearly explains how to wire this 12-volt relay up?
That place is here, Private Cactus! A standard 12-volt four-connector automotive relay uses the following IDs: connector #30 is incoming power from the battery on the positive (+) side, connector #87 is positive (+) power to the backup lights, connector #85 is the negative (-) or return, to the relay usually from the wiring harness, connector #86 is the positive (+) reverse signal to the relay. How this relay operates is the reverse signal comes in on #86 (when in reverse), closing the relay’s contacts between #30 & #87, turning on the reverse lights. Boot, you should have requisitioned a relay with a wiring diagram! Obviously, an MOS change to 1141 is not for you, Boot! Let’s hope you are better at the ARQ than wiring! Dismissed!
I have a Honda 700 Pioneer and just had an interesting discussion with my dealer’s tech as to why it can be difficult to get an accurate oil-level reading. He reiterated the manual, “With a cold motor start, let it idle for about three minutes, shut it down, and let it set a few minutes and then check the oil.” That part I understand and that you can’t ever get a decent reading out on the trail. What I don’t get is his insistence that I need to run Pro Honda GN4 four-stroke oil SAE 10W-30 exclusively because of it having the desired “lubricity” and never use synthetic because the motor is not built for synthetic oils! What is he talking about, Sarge? I didn’t think a manufacturer or a dealer could insist that an owner use their oil or something will break, and I’ve never heard of an engine that couldn’t accept synthetic oil.
Blackhawk, South Dakota
Boot, there are several problems here. First, you do not understand the Magnuson Moss Warranty Act. Honda cannot deny warranty if you don’t use their oil, not that something may or may not “work” correctly. Second, Honda and its dealers can “insist” all they want, but you don’t have to use their GN4 oil in your Zooter. Third, “lubricity”. Here is a very good article on lubricity: https://fueloilnews.com/2010/03/04/taking-the-mystery-out-of-lubricity/. Basically, lubricity is the property of an oil to minimize the degree of friction between surfaces. Now what does this have to do with checking the oil level of your Zooter? Darned if I know, Boot! The Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) developed a viscosity scale for motor oils. The 10 stands for the viscosity of the oil at 0 degrees Fahrenheit, and the “W” stands for Winter. And, finally, the 30 is the oil weight measured at 212 degrees. The viscosity scale is a mark all oil manufacturers must meet. You can’t almost meet it, nor can you exceed it. So, any quality 10W30 oil will work for you, because they are the same viscosity at the same temperature. Finally, in the early days of synthetic oils, there may have been engines that had some internal components that were incompatible with early synthetic oils. And, some motors had such loose tolerances that synthetic oils would leak out everywhere! And, you were warned to completely flush your motor’s cases if you wanted to switch to synthetic because their oil would curdle in the presence of petroleum oil. None of this applies today, Boot! As long as you stick with the recommended weight oil for your operating temperatures, use any quality brand-name oil you want that is not labeled as “Energy Conserving” or “Energy Conserving II”. That does not mean I am recommending oils from the local dollar store or local supermarket, Boot! I said a quality name-brand oil. And, make sure it is rated “SN” and not “SN Plus” (that “Energy Conserving” stuff again, Boot!). You asked a good question, Boot, and that gets you to the head of the chow line! Dismissed!