The Polaris RZR XP 1000 is an amazing machine; great handling and tons of power make for the ultimate UTV experience. In comparison to the already-impressive XP 900, the XP1K is an all-around bigger machine, with more than 20 percent more horsepower and enough torque to pull much larger 29- and 30-inch tires. The one downfall, or obvious weak link, is the clutch. While the XP 1000 is clearly more machine than the previous 900 model, its major clutching components and belt are exactly the same. While some think that the XP 1000 needs a completely new, larger clutch system, the CVT clutching experts at Dirty Dawg Performance (DDP) say otherwise. DDP tells us the secret is proper setup. DDP sets up the clutch to run properly in exactly the rpm range that you run your machine. This minimizes belt slip and reduces heat, thus reducing belt failure and improving performance. DDP technicians will listen to your entire setup, ask you a few key questions, and build you a custom-tuned clutch that is ready to perform.
Place the transmission in neutral, and then raise and support the vehicle. Remove the left rear wheel. As a safety precaution, we store it under the vehicle while the project takes place. Remove three Torx screws and the lower shock guard.
Remove the six clutch-cover bolts and remove the clutch cover. Mark the drive belt’s rotation direction so it can be installed in the same direction, then remove the belt. As a rule, with OEM belts, the part numbers should read left to right.
Remove the rearward-driven or secondary-clutch retaining bolt. When removing the driven secondary clutch, it will pull off by hand after removing the retaining bolt. Use an impact wrench to remove the bolt; otherwise, the shaft will tend to spin.
Remove the drive clutch primary retaining bolt. Remove the drive clutch primary with the proper clutch puller. The necessary puller is specific to the RZR XP 900 and XP 1000 and must be used to remove the primary without inflicting damage.
Make sure all the Xs line up on the cover, spider and sheaves before disassembly. If designation is not clear, use a permanent marker to mark all the parts before disassembly.
Remove the cover bolts evenly in a cross pattern, and then remove the cover plate. Remove the drive clutch spring as well.
Remove the shift bolts and weights. Inspect the surface of the weight pins; they should be smooth and gall-free. If they show any sign of damage, replace as necessary.
Remove the four T25 Torx screws that secure the helix into the secondary. They may require heat, as they are often Loctited from the factory.
Place the clutch in a compression tool, press down on top of the spider assembly, pushing the spider onto the shaft. Remove the snap ring and slowly release the assembly.
Remove the spider assembly and spring. Install the DDP spring and reassemble the secondary clutch. Install the helix into the clutch. Tighten the four T25 Torx bolts.
Install the DDP adjustable weights and DDP primary spring into the primary drive clutch. Install the six cover bolts, making sure that all your marks line up.
As a rule, DDP will have your weights set up for your machine. Be sure that all sheaves are clean and free of any dirt or belt dust. Sheaves can be cleaned with a green Scotch-Brite pad, then wiped with alcohol. Harsh cleaners will leave residue and cause belt failure.
Install the clutch and belt. Be sure the belt is installed in the same direction as it was taken off. If installing a new belt, DDP recommends proper break in by driving around for 10 minutes with no wide-open throttle.
Install the cover and reassemble the machine. DDP also recommends that you remove the clutch inlet filter from the clutch intake box located on the driver side’s top of the bed rail. The filter is restrictive and doesn’t allow for proper cooling.
Any questions for proper tuning of a DDP clutch can be handled by calling their knowledgeable staff at (763) 228-4345.