I CAN SEE MY BRAKES ARE BROKEN!
I have a brand-new 2020 RZR S 900. I was out on my first ride to break it in, and it seemed like the brakes are just not there. The pedal is firm and not soft, but there isn’t much brake force. At anything above 10 mph downhill, I can’t lock the tires! The dealer’s service department says the brakes just need to be broken in. Sarge, I can understand some reduction in brake force when brand new, but I just can’t see my brakes not locking the wheels!
Well, Private Bart, I agree with you. No matter how little the pads are touching the discs, you should have enough braking power to lock the brakes at 10 mph! My first thought is pad or disc contamination caused by poor dealer prep. Requisition a Scotch-Brite green pad, some contact or brake cleaner, a block of wood and some fine sandpaper. Remove the calipers from each disc and wipe down the discs with the green pad saturated with the cleaner. Then remove the pads and give them a good cleaning, too, with the contact or brake cleaner. Then use the block of wood as a sanding block and, on each pad, expose a new clean surface. Spray the pads down again with the contact or brake cleaner and let them dry before reassembly. Assuming you told Sarge the truth and the brake pedal was firm, your braking force will be increased measurably. And with the proper break-in, you should have full braking force restored. Present your receipts for the cleaning products to the dealer’s service department and tell them you did their job for them and demand restitution! Dismissed!
COLEMAN GAS GAUGE NOT GAUGING!
I have what I think is a 2015 Coleman 500 Outfitter. My son purchased a used unit from Cabella’s. Apparently, the original owner returned it because the fuel gauge didn’t work. They never tried to fix it, and it laid around for quite a while. So, my son purchased it for a very good price. I asked if Cabella’s could fix the fuel gauge, and they said they only sell them! I was told to contact the so-called “authorized service center.” I was told I needed a replacement gauge. I checked the Coleman UTV website and there isn’t a gauge listed! Sarge, my son says you can help me troubleshoot this problem.
West Chester, Ohio
Private Chen-Shin, I cannot dispute your son’s wisdom! Laugh, Boot! These businesses that sell the Chinese UTVs don’t provide service and will always refer you to an “authorized service center” who will rarely fix the UTVs, even though they are “authorized” by the manufacturers. And, usually, the manufacturer is less than helpful, too. However, I am here to provide that help, Boot! I can help you troubleshoot that fuel gauge, and if you are lucky, you might get that fuel gauge working again (or for the first time). The problem may be as simple as a bad connection. Let’s start by checking the wire plug on the top of the fuel pump unit, which is located under the passenger-side seat. Remove the connector from the fuel pump head. Check the pins of the connector for proper seating and any corrosion. Clean any corrosion and ensure the pins make good contact. Retest your fuel gauge. If it still doesn’t work, then let’s try aligning the gauge float. Remove the black screw ring holding down the fuel-pump unit. Remove some of the fuel-line zip-ties so you can lift out the fuel pump. Check for full movement of the float arm. Reassemble and retest. If the fuel gauge is still not working, a new fuel pump unit may be necessary. Beyond these tests, you will need boots on the ground, which I cannot supply. Requisition that locally if possible. Remember, Boot, a good deal isn’t the only criteria in purchasing a Zooter—although I see that more and more, but that only works if there are no problems. Your son needs to give me 50 for putting money saved over service! Dismissed!
MORE BRAKING QUESTIONS
I have a 2015 Polaris 325 Ace. I have had the exhaust recall and installed EMP fender extensions for the 26-inch 489XL tires on SuperATV Bandit 12-inch offset rims. I also had the clutch re-tuned for the 26-inch tires. What I would really like is the EBS from the larger 570 for the downhills on the Hatfield–McCoy here in West Virginia. My dealer said nothing could be retrofitted. But looking at the online parts lists from the 570 and the 325, I have determined that for the primary drive clutch you need one each of P/N 1521172 one-way clutch bearing and P/N 7556745 thrust washer. And for the secondary driven clutch you need one each of P/N 1323286 ASM-Driven Clutch EBS, P/N 7519210 bolt, P/N 3211149 drive belt and P/N 5633000 spacer clutch to do this conversion. Do you agree, Sarge?
Williamson, West Virginia
Private Peter Pan, you impress Sarge with your initiative in looking up compatible parts online. Most recruits never make it past the forums! Looking at what you looked at, I concur, it might work. I have never heard of someone doing it the hard way, part by part. Most recruits turn to Starting Line Products here—www.startinglineproducts.com/—for their engine braking system. You will find the Ace 325 EBS retrofit kit on page 4 of their 2019 UTV online catalog. Boot, you just made E3! Dismissed!