Dear Sarge,

I have a 2019 Polaris RZR 900 S that I picked up as a leftover last fall. I always wanted to rock crawl because I live near Moab. People have told me the “little” 900 S just can’t cut it! So, I decided to prove them wrong and bulid a RZR 900-S rock crawler. I started with Factory UTV for full under-body protection. I also read where if you remove the fender flares and install 50-inch RZR 900 fender flares that I could install 30-inch tires. I have a Dalton clutch with the orange rock-crawling spring. I am running 14-inch STI HD5s with Pro Armor Crawler XG tires. I also installed a Polaris 4500-pound winch. What I am thinking, Sarge, is a turbo kit. I can add 30 horsepower to my puny 75 horsepower because I see all the 1000s out there with 100+ horsepower and I feel outclassed! What do you think of my plan?

Larry Horrath

Green River, Utah

Private Horrible, horsepower is not everything in rock crawling! It isn’t even the first or second thing I think about! A RZR 900-S rock crawler is a good idea because it has A-arm rear suspension, which is better in the rocks than trailing arms. You definitely need a rock-crawling clutch kit, because the 900 S’ low range was raised a bit too tall for my liking. A properly set up clutch can mitigate the tall low range to an extent. I would seriously consider an aftermarket cage over a turbo kit. You will most likely use the cage more than the turbo! Laugh, Boot! Your 75-crank horsepower, 47 rear-wheel horsepower (RWHP) is plenty to carry you most anywhere in Moab. Too much horsepower and an improperly set up clutch will just produce unwanted tire spin that can slide you sideways off a rock into winching territory. Or, you could be testing that roll cage of yours! Laugh again, Boot! Talk to other experienced Zooter owners when you are out crawling and they will tell you horsepower ain’t the end all, be all of rock crawling! On your face, Boot, and count off 47, one for every RWHP your “outclassed” Zooter has! Dismissed!


Dear Sarge,

I have a 2014 Polaris Ranger 800 EFI with a Dot Weld Off-Road folding polycarbonate windshield. I got it for Christmas from my wife. Well, we used it a few times, and one day it got quite dirty, so my wife tried to clean it with Windex. Now a section is dull and cloudy. Sarge, what happened? And, just what should she have been using? Do I need to order a replacement windshield of better quality?

Tom and Sherry Wilson

Auburn, California

Boot and Bootette, stuff happens! Deal with it by understanding the different properties of each type of plastic windshield. Remember, Boot, you would have used the same product if given the chance! Polycarbonate plastic is a perfectly acceptable plastic for windshields. Hard-coated is better, but plain polycarbonate is fine if you use the correct cleaning products. Initially, wash with warm soapy water. Dry with a microfiber cloth. Polish with a polycarbonate-safe product like Hardline RX: https://www.hardlineproducts.com/
polish/. Windex has ammonia in it, and ammonia damages polycarbonate. Hardline RX will not create buildup and will not harm the plastic at all. See UTV Action’s test of this product here: https://utvactionmag.com/hardline-products-rx-uv-protectant-cleaner-polish/ Now, to the problem of the surface damage. Since only a small section of the windshield is damaged, we can attempt a repair, or at least make it better if not crystal clear again. At your local automobile accessory store, requisition Mother’s Nulens. Follow the instructions on the box for polishing the plastic with the blue PowerBall 4Lights polishing ball and the PowerPlastic 4Lights plastic polish and see if simply polishing the windshield will clear the cloudiness away. If not, then move to the included wet sanding discs. Start with the 800 grit and move to the 1500 grit, and then finish up with the 3000 grit. Don’t over-sand in one area, and keep plenty of water on the sanding discs. Keep moving to prevent the plastic from heating up and melting. Then, redo the blue polishing ball and the PowerPlastic 4Lights plastic polish. If the windshield can be saved at all, this procedure will do it. Then finish with a polish and protectant like Hardline RX. No PT for your wife, Boot, because I’m sure she feels bad enough already! Dismissed!


Dear Sarge,

I have a 2016 Hisun HS500. It has been mostly reliable until recently. We have been cutting some logs for firewood. I cut them, and my son pulls them out to the splitter. Occasionally, when trying to connect to the log, my son has found it easier to just drive up to it and then pull it out backwards a bit to make it easier to place the log on the Timber Tuff Log Skate that we purchased from Tractor Supply. Now, here is the problem: we can tow the log on the Log Skate, but we can’t seem to pull it backwards. The engine seems to have more power pulling forward than backwards! Is this possible?

Denny and Chris Ferguson

Sandy Creek, New York

Private Fungus, yes, it is possible, and your Zooter is operating as designed. Your Zooter is equipped with a reverse rev limiter. It was added as a supposed safety feature so you can’t back up too fast. In your case, you might want to consider disabling this feature, as long as you understand the consequences. Locate the ECU connector. Locate the green wire with the Blue stripe. Cut it. Even a raw recruit should be able to accomplish this task! Your son owes me 50 for not being able to figure out how to maneuver his Zooter to tow the log out in forward. If you can drive to a log, you can back up to a log! Dismissed!

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