RZR BALL JOINT ISSUES
I’m having RZR ball joint issues. On my 2020 Polaris RZR XP 1000 EPS, I noticed the left front wheel was wobbling and traced it down to a missing spring clip on the upper ball joint. The knuckle was half pulled out of the upper A-arm. Sarge, what caused this, and how do I prevent this from happening again in the future, because you could say I am a bit hard on equipment? Also, what could have happened if I hadn’t caught it when I did? Would the knuckle have completely separated from the upper A-arm?
Private Davy Jones, you have no idea how lucky you are. RZR ball joint issues are not common, but yes, that ball joint can completely separate and can destroy an axle, rip a brake line, damage the A-arm and chew the side of a wheel up! See, Boot, you have to realize your entire front end is really held in place by four C-clips! And, the C-clips take all the suspension and steering load, not the ball joints. While there are so-called heavy-duty aftermarket ball joints out there, they all, to my knowledge, use C-clips to retain them. There is only one brand of ball joint that does not use C-clips, Keller Performance Products, see here: https://keller
performanceproducts.com/. Keller’s ball joints are two pieces that screw together, eliminating the weak link, the C-clip! But, a set of four will set you back over $500. Weigh that expense against a single C-clip ball-joint failure and the resulting damage and it starts to look like a good deal, especially if, as you said, “You could say I am a bit hard on equipment.” Boot, to help you decide, grab your Ruck and load it with 50 pounds. You have three hours to determine what to do while you complete 12 miles! Dismissed!
See the 2022 Polaris RZRs here: 2022 POLARIS RZR PRO XP | UTV Action Magazine
ONE GOES “WEEEE” AND THE OTHER GOES “CLICK”!
Back in 2012, we purchased a pair of Polaris RZR XP 900 Rangers, the best available in 2012. One is in Liquid Silver and the other is in Voodoo Blue. Nine years later, with some shock work, extended A-arms for more travel and some clutch work, we are still enjoying them; however, we have a couple of problems I wanted to run by you for your opinion. The silver Ranger sometimes refuses to turn over. The starter clicks, but the engine will not turn over. Then, all of a sudden, it will turn over and instantly start. The blue Ranger has the same but different problem. The starter will just whine, and the Bendix will not engage the motor. Do that a few times and it will “catch” and turn the engine over and instantly start. I have been told the blue Ranger doesn’t even have a “Bendix”! If that is true, then how does the starter engage the engine, Sarge?
Private Potted Plant, I can’t believe after all these years you don’t have a factory service manual! Based on your questions, I know you don’t have a clue about the starter motors of your Zooters. Here is your copy of the Polaris factory service manual, Boot: http://polaris-atv.brssm.com/2012-
manual.html. We may be looking at dereliction of duty here, Boot! “Same but different problem,” eh, Boot? The Liquid Silver Zooter: Might be the battery, but they don’t miraculously start a motor if the solenoid is clicking! Might be a bad starter solenoid. Might be a bad starter motor. Next time your Zooter clicks, Boot, attach a jumper cable from the (+) battery terminal to the terminal stud on the starter motor and see if the motor turns over. If it does, it is your starter solenoid; if it doesn’t, then you have a dead spot on your starter motor’s armature, requiring requisitioning of a new starter motor. The Voodoo Blue Zooter: Your Zooter does not have a Bendix! See page 3.43 of your service manual. Then count off 50, Boot! Your one-way clutch or “sprag clutch” is sticking and will require removal and possibly replacement. Rick’s Motorsport Electrics (https://ricksmotorsportelectrics.com) is an excellent source of quality electrical components for UTVs. One-way clutches work on the principle of speed differential. If the Zooter’s engine is spinning slower than the starter motor is, then the starter motor is connected to the flywheel, allowing the starter motor to spin over the Zooter’s engine. Conversely, if the Zooter’s engine is spinning faster than the starter motor (running condition), the starter motor is disengaged from the flywheel, allowing normal operation. I am seriously questioning your DH4A assessment for going nine years without a factory service manual! What was your ASVAB score anyway, Boot? Dismissed!
PULLING IS SUCH A DRAG
Our campground has a 2019 Cub Cadet Challenger 400 4×4 UTV. It is used for towing a mower or a trailer and doing general maintenance around the campground. This summer, we added a DR Products Pro 60 Power Grader. The problem is, while it smooths the stone roads, we can only use the lightest settings, requiring multiple passes to complete the task of smoothing the campground roads. The turf tire kit we use seems to struggle, and on any of the hills, we can smell the Challenger’s belt getting hot. Can you help with a solution?
Cranberry Lake, New York
Private Dumbbell, your Zooter’s 404cc Subaru engine is rated at 14 horsepower, and your 60-inch grader is recommended for 19 horsepower minimum! You should have purchased the 48-inch model that is rated at 14 horsepower minimum! Even then, Bootette, you are at the minimum required horsepower level. Turf tires provide little traction and therefore “struggle.” I don’t find any ready-made clutch kits for your Zooter, so try contacting EPI Performance ([email protected],  829-6036). Your Zooter’s CVT clutch may use some common components, and they could build you a kit to maximize low-end power. Our article here—https://utvactionmag.com/1833/—explains about CVT clutches. Dismissed!