SHEARED IMPELLER BLADES?

SHEARED IMPELLER BLADES?

Dear Sarge,

I own a 2015 Arctic Cat Wildcat 1000. It started overheating after an engine rebuild. The hose out of the water pump that runs to the radiator on the driver’s side is just warm. I suspected a plugged hose. I checked it out, and it was clear. Next, I disassembled the water pump, and found sheared impeller blades; three of the vanes were partially broken off. I ordered a replacement impeller and installed it, and I still had the overheating problem. I checked everything—the hoses, the thermostat, the radiator, the coolant. Everything checked out. Finally, out of desperation, I pulled the water pump cover off again and the new impeller was broken, too. Sarge, can you tell me what is going on here?

Larry Fine

Cody, Wyoming

Private Stooge, when you had your Zooter’s engine rebuilt, was it at an authorized Arctic Cat dealer or at an independent? I am guessing it wasn’t an authorized motor pool, Boot. Now, I don’t have anything against independent motor pools. They pick up the slack from dealers with incompetent help. But, they have access to all the Zooter service manuals that some independents don’t. Your problem is the impeller’s vanes are hitting the outer housing and this breaks them off. The only thing that I know of that can cause sheared impeller blades is the impeller shaft not being indexed correctly, and that could push the impeller’s vanes too close to the outer cover. Maybe your mechanic made a mistake or was in over his head, although you will never get him to admit it. Also, Boot, you should be running the upgraded water pump (p/n 0813-071 and not the 0813-059) with the (in my opinion) inferior impeller shaft. For all this priceless information, you get to count off 50! On your face, Boot! Dismissed!
See UTV Action’s full test on the Wildcat 1000 here: UTV TEST: Arctic Cat Wildcat 1000 4X EPS – UTV Action Magazine

 

OUT OF STOCK FOREVER

Dear Sarge,

I have a 2020 Honda Talon, and it seems like each summer is hotter than the previous. I have been trying to purchase a Cool Cab overhead fan for my Talon, but it has been out of stock forever! Do you have a source for one of these units, like maybe one at UTV Action that you tested and don’t use anymore?

Terry Kennedy

Los Vegas, Nevada

Nice try, Boot! I never saw one around here, although the old man may have one on his Zooter ’cause he is such a wimp! I looked over that unit, and while real marines don’t need a fan, I see the unit in question is simply constructed from off-the-shelf parts. To construct your own, Boot, you need the fan that matches their specifications, go here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/253018788222. Next, you need a switch; go here: https://www.utvinc.com/switches.html. Next, you need mounting rails; go here: https://www.homedepot.com/p/everbilt-1-in-x-96-in-aluminum-square-tube-with-1-20-in-thick-802537/204273939 or a similar item can be purchased from Lowe’s or most any good hardware store. Next, you need a piece of sheet aluminum for the switch mounting, unless you mount the switch on your Zooter’s dash, which is an upgrade from the Cool Cab unit. Lowe’s, Home Depot or a decent hardware store will have thin-sheet aluminum. Finally, you will need a way to connect the aluminum bars to the roll bar with connecting clamps; go here: https://www.amazon.com/bracket-mounting-brackets-off-road-lighting/dp/b072q2n1pj/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=house+tuning+roll+bar+clamps+1.75+inch-pack+4+tube+clamp+bracket+1+3%2f4+inch+roll+bar&qid=1628436776&s=automotive&sr=1-1. Miscellaneous sheet-metal screws and wire will be needed to finish off your fan, Boot. Remember, Sarge gets the first look at your creation. This amount of valuable information deserves 50, don’t you think? Count them off, Boot! Dismissed!

BAD (NOT GOOD) VIBRATIONS AT SPEED

Dear Sarge,

I have a brand-new Polaris RZR Pro XP, and while I like it, I am just not a fan of the original wheels. A neighbor just a few doors down has an XP with some great beadlock wheels made by Pro Armor. We got to talking, and we ended up swapping wheels, keeping the same tires. Now, to my problem: I get a vibration at 50-plus mph. It can’t be the tires, because they were my originals, and it can’t be the wheels because my neighbor swears that they rolled true for him. With my 2022 being brand new, I can’t imagine what could be worn out so quickly. He suggested I contact you because he said you would know!

Justin Reynolds

Albuquerque, New Mexico

He did, did he? Smart marine! So, assuming you didn’t hit anything immediately after installing the new wheels, and being as your Zooter is “new,” what is the only thing that changed besides the wheels? The tire mounting, Boot! If your original tires were not centered correctly before the locking ring was bolted down, your tires may well be mounted out of round. Once that beadlock ring is bolted down securely, by design, the tire can’t shift or move. So, what needs to be done, Boot, is take the tires back to where you had them swapped, or if you did it yourself, remove the beadlocks and ensure there is no debris around each bolt hole and to position the edge of the tire bead next to the beadlock mounting surface. Install the locking ring, lubricate the bolts with Never-Seize and evenly hand-tighten them. Never use an impact wrench to tighten the bolts. A T-handle is the preferred tool. When all of the bolts are hand-tight, inspect the bead of the tire and ensure that it is equal all the way around the beadlock ring. Then, finally use a torque wrench to finish tightening to the wheels’ recommended torque spec (generally, 20-22 pound-feet for your size wheel). If this does not cure the vibration, have the tires balanced at a reputable tire shop. Your plan was sound, Boot, just the execution was bad! You, too, can count off 50! I love seeing 50 + 50 + 50 from my recruits! Dismissed! 

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