SWAY BAR SERVICE
SWAY BAR SERVICE
I own a 2016 Polaris General 1000 EPS Deluxe in Orange Burst. The last few rides I have noticed a squeak that appears to be coming from the rear sway bar. On the forums I was advised to grease my sway bar. Sarge, does sway bar service mean removing the rear sway bar and its bushing, and greasing the bushing, then reassembling?
Boot, do I care what color your Zooter is? Although the blue Zooters are faster than the orange ones, because the orange paint is not as aerodynamic! Laugh, Boot! Your rear sway bar has two Zerk grease fittings, one for each bushing. You cannot see these Zerks unless you remove the rear wheels and stick your head up in the fender well. You can feel them, and with a flexible grease gun hose, they can be greased with lithium-based synthetic marine grease. It sticks very well, and it doesn’t wash away. Petroleum-based greases can degrade the bushings over time. What will not degrade is 30 push-ups in the sand! Dismissed!
See UTV Action’s full test on the General XP 1000 here: POLARIS GENERAL XP 4 1000 DELUXE TEST – UTV Action Magazine
BAD BOY BUGGY BEING BAD
I have a Bad Boy Classic Buggy, and I can’t find any info on the fault codes for the controller. I get a solid green with the key on, and when you press the gas pedal, I get three red flashes. Do you have a source for the controller fault codes?
Private Cheeseburger, of course I have a source for that info. I am the source! Laugh, Boot! This info should be available from the manufacturer; however, it seems to be a state secret! One flash means the controller is being set out of its permissible range. A reprogramming is the only fix. Two flashes is “incorrect startup sequence.” You turned the key of the Zooter on with the accelerator depressed or the directional switch was either in forward or reverse. Three flashes, which apparently is your problem, is a MOSFET short circuit. Could be a bad controller, or a bad connection to the controller causing high resistance. Four flashes is a MOSFET short circuit, usually caused by a bad connection. Five flashes is not used. Six flashes is accelerator wire off fault. Check the four-pin connector on the accelerator. Seven flashes is that the battery voltage is too high or low. High voltage is almost never the problem, while if the voltage is too low to operate the buggy, you get seven flashes. Eight flashes is an overheated controller. Nine flashes mean a controller failure and requires replacement. And finally, 10 flashes means an unspecified controller problem and usually means replace the controller. Boot, I need to see 10 pushups for every flash! And, consider yourself lucky you didn’t have 10 flashes! Dismissed!
CLICKING, WHINING AND SUCKING—OH MY!
For winter driveway plowing, I purchased a cherry 2012 Can Am Commander X with a cab, tracks and a snowplow. Last winter it worked like a treat! The only thing I can’t stand about it is the CVT belt intake inside the cab. It is exceedingly loud! It clicks. Then it starts whining, and you always have the sucking sound of the air intake. Why would Can-Am put the intake inside the cab where it is so annoying, and what can be done about it?
Hay River, NWT, Canada
Private Tremble, that CVT air intake inside the cab is part of the Can-Am dual-intake accessory kit that apparently the previous owner installed to cool your Zooter’s drive belt. Most likely the Can-Am accessory dual intake/dual exhaust kit was installed due to snow-plowing overheating the drive belt. CVT’s were not initially designed to drive snow plows, Boot! They were designed for snowmobiles! The clicking could be worn-out primary clutch slider buttons, flat rollers or the needle bearing is dry. Given your Zooter’s age, a complete rebuild may be in order. EPI has a primary clutch rebuild kit you can use, but only if you know how to rebuild CVTs and have the correct tools to do the job, here: https://epiperformance
210932/. Otherwise, remove the Zooter’s clutch and send it to a CVT clutch specialist for professional evaluation and rebuild. The fix for your CVT intake is to re-route that dumb in-cab intake and relocate it to either the bed area or the side, anything to get the noise outside the cab. And, make sure you put some filter material over the now-exterior intake to prevent water and debris entering the CVT area. A good brand is Frogzskin; see here: https://frogzskin.com/product-category/
universals-mesh/. Be creative, Boot, the way I am with your PT! Try 20 pull-ups, 20 sit-ups and 20 push-ups. Now, Boot, dismissed!
I NEVER HAVE THE CORRECT HITCH
Up at camp we have a 2014 Polaris Ranger XP 900. It is primarily used to tow several utility trailers and to also tow logs back to camp for firewood. Right now I have to carry on the Ranger a standard receiver with a 2-inch ball hitch, then another with a standard tongue, then I took another receiver and welded a hook for dragging things with a rope. Sarge, there has got to be a better way to tow various items than having three hitches. Hope you can help.
Private Barney Miller, while I admire a recruit’s ingenuity in carrying three hitches and even welding up one for any situation, wouldn’t it have been easier to modify the trailers to fit one hitch? You obviously can weld. However, Polaris offers a 2-inch receiver tow hitch that will tow a 2-inch ball trailer, tongue trailer and has a rod for attaching a rope or hook. Look at Polaris p/n 2830522 here:
accessories/winches/. You had better be splitting that wood with an axe, Boot! Dismissed!