— Sarge McCoy’s Troubleshooting Advice —
HOW DO YOU GREASE A ZERK FITTING?
I have a 2017 Polaris XP Turbo, and the manual says to grease the drive line Zerk fitting. I have tried several times to get at it. It is placed in the most inaccessible place possible. Sarge, do you have a special way to get at it? Could you please share it?
Private Tinfoil, of course I have a “special” way of greasing the driveshaft slip joint on the two-seat Polaris Turbos. Will I share? Heck no! Figure it out for yourself! Laugh, Boot! Twenty push-ups and I might share! Start by pulling the tunnel to find the Zerk, located above the frame cross-member. Twist the Zerk downward, pointing towards the cross-member. Now, drill a 5/8-inch hole (or a hole that allows passage of your grease gun head) aligning with the downward-facing Zerk. Then drill another larger hole in the skid plate, aligning with the first hole. To make the greasing even easier, requisition a 90-degree grease gun swivel from Zoro.com. They come in both 1/8-inch and 1/4-inch sizes, depending on your grease gun requirements. Now, with a solid extension attached to your grease gun, you can easily “hit the mark”! I will give you credit for even trying to grease that joint. Most recruits just pass because of the difficulty in accessing that Zerk. Keep it up, Boot, and you may make E3 out of boot camp! Dismissed!
DO YOU PREFER SUICIDE OR STANDARD?
I am in the market for some half doors for my RZR 900. Among our riding group, there is quite a discussion about traditional swing doors or the so-called suicide doors. Everyone has deep-set opinions on which doors are best. I like the look of the Pro Armor doors. So, I am turning to you, Sarge, for a definitive answer on the best half doors for my 900.
Ah, Shelbyville, I remember it well. Sure did love that all-you-can-eat pizza lunch buffet at Hometown Pizza! Anyway, my recommendation is a door that seals better than the Pro Armor doors. In your neck of the woods, Boot, they tend to let in more mud and splash than they should; however, if you are dead set on Pro Armor doors, requisition some automotive sealing foam and apply it to the door-sealing edges. With the addition of the automotive foam, the Pro Armor doors can be made more splash-resistant. As to the direction of the door swing, I find it easier, especially in a trailer, to get out of a Zooter with rear-swinging suicide doors. Just make sure that whoever installs the doors does so correctly, because it is imperative the latches operate as designed and never allow the doors to pop open. If they are not installed correctly, the result will be that unlike a traditional door which swings forward, the rear swinging door will swing backward, over extend, and bend and never close correctly again. If Pro Armor is your chosen door company and rear swing “suicide” is your style choice, then these doors are what you are looking for: www.proarmor.com/shop-by-product/doors/traditional-
I FINALLY OWN ONE NOW
After searching for years, I finally found a 1984 Honda Big Red ATC-200ES three-wheeler from an older gentleman who hadn’t run it in about two years. I put fresh new fuel in it and got it running. It smokes pretty bad and also only stays running with the choke on. I’m going to clean out the carb, but besides that, any suggestions on what to do about the smoking? I’ve ridden them my whole life and finally own one now!
Spring Valley, New York
Boot, looks to Sarge like you got a “pig in a poke.” It smokes, doesn’t run without the choke, and, while you didn’t mention it, I bet the only thing holding the fuel tank together is the red paint! Seriously! The smoke may be from running with the choke on, as the rich fuel mixture washes oil from the cylinder, but your engine may need a complete top end, valves, guides, piston, rings and a fresh bore. That will stop the smoking. Running with the choke on is a symptom of leaving fuel in the carb for an extended period of time. Even with a good cleaning, the low-speed bleed passageways will not clean out. You can try something like Sea Foam mixed in your fuel to see if it can dissolve the dried fuel, but I would bet it will not. Those small Keihins (20mm) would plug up even if they never sat with fuel in them! Replacement is the only sure fire option, Boot. The fuel tank is two pieces of sheet metal welded together at the lower edges. This creates a channel for any water to collect and in time will rust through the tank’s steel wall. Remove the tank, dump out the fuel and leave the tank in the sun for a couple of days to dry out that channel. Use a flashlight to check for rust. If rust is found, use a fuel tank prep kit to neutralize the rust and seal the fuel tank with a liquid liner. One brand is Kreem Fuel Tank Liner. Boot, I don’t even have the heart to order extra PT, because you have your work cut out for you! Dismissed!
Got a problem with your UTV? Sarge McCoy knows how to fix it. Send your questions to him and he’ll provide the answers. Include your name, city & state with your E-mail. Send it to [email protected]