— Sarge McCoy finds the problem —
SLOPPY, FLOPPY GENERAL
I have a 2017 General 4 and I am afraid it has taken a few too many hits to the front lower A-arm bracket mounts. The tabs are a bit bent and oblong. I wanted to install a SuperATV frame stiffener to fix the A-arm mounting holes, but I can’t get it to fit with my Factory UTV UHMW full-length skid plate. FYI: SuperATV doesn’t make a General skid that would probably fit.
Matewan, West Virginia
Private Porkchop, your Zooter’s skid plate is UHMW—Ultra-High Molecular Weight Plastic. Modify the plastic to fit. Maybe drill and tap some holes in the SuperATV frame stiffener. If you can’t manage that, Boot, mark the frame stiffener and take it to a machine shop and have them do it. Adapt and overcome, Boot! Remember, you can make anything fit anything if you have a big enough hammer! Laugh, Boot! Also, SuperATV is always available to help at (855) 743-3427 or [email protected] After I wrote the above, I got to thinking, are you sure SuperATV doesn’t make a skid plate for the General 4? While it is not listed, SuperATV did build a skid plate for Easton Corbin’s Zooter here:
custom_build. So, definitely contact SuperATV and demand one for your Zooter, too! I mean, what’s the difference between you and Easton, other than you can’t sing and aren’t famous? Laugh again, Boot! I have signed you up for another go-round of BRC, phases 1 and 2! Dismissed!
I CAN’T TELL UP FROM DOWN
I recently attended the auction of a longtime independent UTV/ATV service shop. While there, I purchased many staple items, such as spark plugs, light bulbs and oil filters. I then sold them at cost to our group. Shortly thereafter, I started getting complaints about the H6 QI light bulbs. These were installed on a variety of machines. Some stated the high beam was low and the low beam was high! Others had no problem at all, and some had only one headlight be “bassackwards”! Sarge, do you know what is going on? We can’t figure out why some of our headlights can’t tell the difference between high beam and low beam?
Private Rollcall, I actually have seen this before! Back in the day there was a shipment of H6 quartz-iodine light bulbs from Taiwan where the soldered-on plate with the index nubbin was attached 180 degrees out! This caused the light bulb’s low-beam contact to perfectly align with the high-beam contact, producing a lit low beam when the handlebar switch was set to high beam. So, since you obviously can’t return the H6s to the dealer, I would grind off the indexing nubbin and flux, and solder a new nubbin 180 degrees opposite the ground-off nubbin. This will align the light bulb’s high-beam contact with your Zooter’s high-beam contact. While I commend you, Boot, for trying to save your riding group some pay, remember that “no good deed goes unpunished.” Dismissed!
TOO HOT TO HANDLE
I hope you can help me, because my dealer is useless and can’t find the problem. My Polaris Ranger 800’s fan will not come on. My dealer replaced the fan motor, relay and thermistor. After I took the Ranger away from the “parts replacers,” I jumped the fan directly and it ran. There must be something both the parts replacers and I are missing. Any help you can provide would be great. We use this on the farm, and the slow-going overheats the machine without the fan operational.
Private Worthog, looks to me like, your dealer is truly a “parts replacer.” I don’t think they even did the basics of electrical troubleshooting. Does it have power? Yes/no? You jumped it, and the fan ran. And I bet the replaced fan ran, too! There is an in-line fuse located under the battery that may be blown or corroded. If that fuse is bad, no amount of parts replacing will solve the problem! You really need a service manual with a complete wiring diagram, Boot! Get yours here: www.scribd.com/doc
800-xp-hd-6×6-service-manual. You, Boot, are on report for letting your parts replacer continue to drain your pay. Count off 50 in the mud, Boot! Dismissed!
SMOKE ’EM IF YA GOT ’EM
I have a 2017 Teryx 4 with a SuperATV 6-inch lift. The problem I am having is that my belt will overheat and start to separate and break if I drive at high speeds for any length of time. I have tried installing a used 2014 clutch assembly, but I still have the same problem. If you could provide some insight, that would be great, because I am tired of replacing belts every 10 miles!
Vermillion, South Dakota
Private Peter Pan, your belt problem is heat, and lots of it! You didn’t mention if you are running larger-than-stock tires on the Teryx or not, but with a 6-inch lift, I suspect you are. GBoost and EPI have kits to tune your clutches for maximum belt life and performance. Even with stock tires, check these areas on your Teryx. First thing to check is the CVT air intake. Is it clear? Next is the exhaust. Is it clear? Third is make sure there aren’t any belt shreds in the sheaves. The clutches must be clean, clear of debris and operating properly for best belt life. Fourth, replace the ’17 intake with a ’12 intake. Why? Well, Boot, because the ’17 sucks air from the top of the engine while the ’12 gets its air from under the dash where it is usually cooler. Fifth, invest in an infrared belt temperature gauge from Razorback Technology (here: www.razorbackusa .com/gauges). If the fourth tip doesn’t cool the belt sufficiently, then install an inline CVT case fan from STM Powersports (www.stmpowersports.com/kawasaki-teryx-clutch-housing-blower-kit/). That is worth 15–20 degrees. Gates Belts has done a heat study on CVT belt life. At 120 degrees, a belt should last approximately 190 hours. At 160 degrees, it will last 80 hours. At 200 degrees, it will last 35 hours, and at 240 degrees, it will last just 15 hours. Imagine what your belt temperatures are! Since you are getting plenty of PT (and frustration) changing belts, you are dismissed!
For more advice from Sarge, check out the Troubleshooter page in the back of UTV Action magazine every month.