4 PROBLEMS & 4 SOLUTIONS

— Sarge McCoy is The Troubleshooter —

BENT OUT OF SHAPE OVER RADIUS RODS

Dear Sarge,

I need your advice on lower radius rods on my 2017 Polaris RZR 900 Trail Edition. Riding these tight East Coast trails, I keep denting the factory straight lower radius rods. If I don’t catch it soon enough, the Heim joints break. I could go aftermarket straight or aftermarket angled high-clearance arms. What is your advice, Sarge?

Cleve Johnson

Marienville, Pennsylvania

Private John-Boy, when you bend a straight lower radius arm, side loads are increased in the joint. The Heim joints are designed for straight-line loads only. Increase the side loads and the joint fails or the threaded rod simply breaks. Installing a bent lower radius rod will give you more clearance, and they are generally made out of higher-quality materials. However, if they utilize Heim joints, there is an increased side loading to the joints due to the nature of the bent rods, and you may well see broken threads. If you opt to go with the so-called high-clearance lower radius rods, my advice is to find a set that utilizes the stronger spherical bearing setup. And yes, Boot, I am aware of the squeaking problem with these spherical bearings, so now I will show you how to eliminate the dreaded suspension squeak. Requisition RaceReadyProducts.com’s FKS-T heavy-duty spherical bearings with Teflon liners here: www.racereadyproducts.com/fk-rod-ends-and-spherical-bearings/fks-t-heavy-duty-spherical-bearings-alloy-steel/. The Teflon liner reduces the suspension squeak to near zero for most applications. This Teflon liner is a much longer-lasting solution than repeatedly disassembling the suspension for greasing. And, the grease attracts dirt, which will quickly turn a tight suspension into a collection of barely connected arms. “Two sheets and a blanket, Boot”! And, I better not hear a squeak from Your Rack! Dismissed!

HELP! MY SPARK IS PLUGGED!

Dear Sarge,

I purchased a set of E3 spark plugs for my Polaris RZR XP Turbo because the stock plugs were worn out. Ever since then, my top speed has been down over 12 miles an hour. Could these new plugs be the cause, because that is the only difference between the hard-starting spark plugs and these E3s? Your opinion would be appreciated.

Jennifer Wolands

Reno, Nevada

Private Wetlands, Your original spark plugs were of the single ground type. Going to a multi-ground electrode spark plug is fine on paper, but really doesn’t pan out in the real world. Bling factor aside, regardless of what you may think, the multi-ground spark plugs do not fire to all two or three or four grounding electrodes simultaneously. See, Boot, electricity is lazy. It will follow the path of least resistance; typically, that is the cleanest ground electrode. The next problem is the occlusion of the flame kernel because of all the ground electrodes in the way of flame propagation advancing away from the spark plug area. At slow speeds the burn may be adequate, but with increased revs comes incomplete combustion and reduced power output, because there simply isn’t time for a complete burn to take place. In my opinion, the only real advance in spark plugs that is worth anything are the iridium spark plugs. They fire easily with very low resistance, providing instant starts and smooth running throughout the rev range. You can choose most any brand of iridium spark plug. They all work quite well. I tend to be old school and go with NGKs. Since you like bling, boot, I will give you a handful of hand grenade rings. You will make a necklace of them and you will wear them wherever you go in uniform. You will take it to PT, you will take it to chow, and you will take it to work. If anyone asks you why you’re wearing this necklace, you will tell them, “It’s because I like bling, sir!” Dismissed!

NOT EXACTLY A UTV QUESTION, BUT STILL IMPORTANT

Dear Sarge,

I have been having a terrible time keeping my GoPro solidly attached to my roll bar on my Ranger 1000. Obviously, the factory GoPro mount flexes and vibrates because the vibrations ruin the video. I am assuming you take videos and have solved this annoying problem already. So, instead of reinventing the wheel, I will just ask you!

“Wild Bill” McGovern

Hurdsfield, North Dakota

Private Big Mac, yes, it is an important question and yes, I do take videos, of raw recruits making stupid mistakes! Yours is trusting GoPro to make a roll bar mount that doesn’t flex! I am referring to the GoPro roll bar mount (GRBM30). One mount that I am familiar with is the Ram mount ATV/UTV strap clamp roll bar mount (RAM-B-149Z-2-GOP1U). This is a permanent mount, although you can purchase extra mounts and just move the double socket arm to the new mount. In my experience, Ram mounts are a solid mounting platform for many devices. Count off 20, Boot, for not asking Sarge first! Dismissed!

MY CANNIBAL ATE MY WHEEL HUB!

Dear Sarge,

I have a 2003 Cannondale 440 Cannibal. While out riding, I entered a curve a bit hot, overshot and slid up against a rock, cracking a wheel and the axle hub. Replacing the rim was no problem, but the axle hub is another matter. Can you help me find a replacement?

Steve Ronson

Kansas City, Kansas

Private Rollon, this is an easy one! You need a 4x110mm bolt spacing with 24 splines cut on the axle. Lonestar makes a Taper Loc billet rear wheel hub (#12-401) that is an exact fitment for your Zooter. They are available from numerous purveyors in our fine rag and the internet. To slow you down a bit, Boot, I suggest you fall out for extra PT for a month! Dismissed!

Make sure you check out The Troubleshooter page every month in the back of UTV Action magazine. If you have problems with your machine get Sarge McCoy to help. E-mail your questions to him at [email protected] Put “Sarge” in the subject line.

You might also like

Comments are closed.