LOW-COST DO-IT-YOURSELF UTV REPAIRS

— Sarge McCoy tells you the easiest & cheapest ways to fix your UTV problems —

IS THE POLARIS ACE 325 TOO HOT TO HANDLE?

Dear Sarge,

I had a chance to purchase a 2014 Polaris 325 Ace for my son. The owner had wrapped a piece of tin and hose clamps around the exhaust pipe because there was a crack in the header. The hot exhaust had partially melted the seat. I inquired about the cob-job repair, and the owner indignantly replied that “they all did it.” I chose to walk away from this deal, and we were wondering if we purchased a new 325 Ace if we will have the same problem, and if so, can we just purchase an aftermarket exhaust to cure the problem?

Dennis Greenway

Kansas City, Missouri

Private Greengrass, there are no 2017 or ‘18 325 Aces. They were only produced during the 2014–’16 model years. That aside, there is currently a Polaris recall on the 325 Aces for their cracking headers. So, Boot, it is up to you if you want to purchase that 2014 Zooter, and then call Polaris at (800) 765-2747 from 7 a.m. to 7 p.m. CT Monday through Friday and ask to be included in the recall, or look for another 325 or step up to the 500 for less money than the 325 cost new!

IS A CARBURETOR A CARBURETOR?

Dear Sarge,

I own and drive the heck out of a 2000 Yamaha Warrior. I had a fuel tank problem, and I removed the fuel filter because it kept plugging up (dumb, I know). Now I have a carburetor that doesn’t meter fuel correctly anymore. I think I have worn out the internal parts, because I have been having tons of problems with my carburetor. I looked at a new OEM Yamaha carburetor on RonniesMailOrder.com, and a new carburetor is listed at $394.41! I doubt my entire Warrior is worth that! Sarge, I also found a carburetor on Amazon from a company called Caltric for $43. It’s a vast difference in price; is there a vast difference in quality? Would you use one, Sarge?

Dean Williams

Weedsport, New York

First off, Boot, by removing the fuel filter you knowingly let contaminated fuel enter your carburetor, and it is now damaged. Boot, you will dig a foxhole 6 feet deep by 2 feet wide, and you will spend the night inside guarding it. Fall asleep and it will be filled with water! And, you will guard the water! As you have discovered, Boot, replacement Mikuni OEM carburetors are expensive. Caltric appears to be an importer of Chinese copies of Japanese OEM parts. I have seen both good and bad reports on these carburetors. They do have a two-month warranty; however, you only have 30 days for an exchange or refund, but that is ample time to determine the suitability of your Zooter’s carburetor, Boot. Their website is www.caltric.com. My advice, Boot, is, for $43, give their carburetor a try and hope you get a good one. It has to be better than what you have now. Be aware they have two models—1993–1998 and 1999–2004 model years. I also suggest you double-time it down to supply and requisition a new Gerber E-tool and sharpen it to a razor’s edge, because you are going to need it, Boot! Dismissed!

PART NOT AVAILABLE

Dear Sarge,

I own a 2006 Arctic Cat 650 H1. I recently broke the wire on the temperature sensor switch on the head. I looked up the part number, and it is 0808-007. My dealer says that part is discontinued and not available. Being the Zooter sage that you are, you probably know where there is a stash of these obsolete temperature switches.

Keith Benman

Nelson, British Columbia, Canada

Boot, if your dealer was any good, he should have told you that the obsoleted part number 0808-007 can be replaced with part number 0808-127. The difference is, you must attach a wire, because they do not come with one from the factory. The wire mounting on the sensor switch was upgraded to cure the problem of broken wires like you experienced. However, Boot, just repair the one you have. It is a simple procedure. Place the switch in a vise and use slip-lock pliers to twist off the yellow cap. Now, break off the epoxy until the soldered contact is visible. Use a soldering iron to remove any broken wire remnants and clean up the contact. Obtain some shrink-wrap tubing (Harbor Freight has a nice selection in a kit) and some JB Weld Plastic Bonder (www.jbweld.com/products/plastic-
bonder-syringe). Slide a piece of the shrink tube over the wire’s end to act as a wire support to reduce the chance of breaking it again. Solder the wire securely to the sensor switch. Slide the shrink tube over the solder connection and heat with a heat gun (preferred), hair dryer or torch (least preferred) to shrink the tube tight over the wire and solder connection. Reinstall the yellow cap over the wire and down on top of the sensor switch. Mix up a small batch of the JB Weld Plastic Bonder per the package directions. Use a small wooden applicator to spoon the Plastic Bonder mixture into the yellow cap to seal and strengthen the wire connection. Allow the mixture to cure for at least 15 minutes (preferred 30 minutes), then reinstall the sensor switch back into the head. Your repair is now stronger than when it left the factory, and with the application of the shrink tube, the wire is protected from bending damage. If you double-time it to Supply and back, your PT is covered, Boot! Dismissed! 

E-mail your questions to Sarge McCoy at [email protected]

Make sure you see Sarge McCoy’s Troubleshooter advice every month in UTV Action magazine.

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