Dear Sarge,

I have a 2017 Polaris General. Since it was new, there has been a low-frequency rumble between about 25 and 40 mph. I also have a paint-spray-can rattle that seems to be intermittent. Polaris is telling me a noise is not a defect. The dealer said they all do that because the drive shafts are not balanced. Sarge, can you balance the drive shafts to reduce or eliminate this annoying rumble? One final thing: How come your magazine didn’t report on this obviously prevalent problem?

Larry Vance

Logandale, Nevada

Another “they all do that,” Private Rancid. Yes, you can have the shafts dynamically balanced by a good automotive driveline shop. It is expensive and it will not solve your problem! Obviously you purchased an early “4” Polaris General, Boot! Remember Sarge’s axiom about never jumping on a new model. Let others figure out what is wrong with it, then purchase the “fixed” model, thus allowing you to ride more and wrench less!

So, since you ignored Sarge and your dealer doesn’t keep up with Optional Service Advisory recalls (Ref. RSA-17-03, dated December 22, 2017), you didn’t receive the upgraded CV jointed driveline, replacing the U-jointed version. That upgrade will cure your Zooter’s rumble, Boot! The propeller shaft is making the differential gears chatter, which sounds like your “spray-can” rattle because it’s not rotating without binding.

Because you never brought this problem to Command (the Dealer’s Service Department), they obviously were not proactive enough to let you know the fix was a 2018 complete propeller shaft. Also, the OSA expired back in November 2018, but I still want you to ask your dealer for the “noise and/or vibration issue questionnaire.” Fill it out and submit it to Polaris. If after the propeller shaft upgrade is done and you still have the noise problem, the front differential would need to be changed, too. You can test for this yourself by disconnecting the front propeller shaft. A test ride will confirm whether your noise is propeller or differential.

Finally, here are the 2018 Polaris General part numbers that you need: #1333917, ASM-Propshaft, front and #1333918, ASM-Propshaft, rear. Get this problem rectified immediately! Now, Boot! Then count off 50 for remaining silent! Also Boot: not all 2017 General 4s make the driveline noise. If ours didn’t, then how could we report on something that never happened? Dismissed!


Dear Sarge,

On our farm we use a 2017 Mahindra 750 XTV Crew Cab. It does what we need it to do, except for the charging system. At idle, it discharges, even without the lights on. Also, we must be moving forward to charge the battery. If we are doing most anything that involves a lot of slow work and frequent stops, the battery discharges to the point where if we shut her off, it will not restart unless we jump it. We have taken to carrying a lithium jump box with us so we can restart her if necessary. The dealer says the battery tests good and he can’t do any more for us. Can you help us?

Terry Furlo

Lancaster, Ohio

Private Futon, it is a shame your local Motor Pool is of little help to you. If you are at all handy and have a VOM (volt ohmmeter), I can provide you with the testing procedures to check out your charging system problems. Have you checked your battery voltage with both the engine off and while operating? Battery voltage should be between 12.8 volts, static and 14 volts @ 3600 rpm. Also, make sure your dealer actually checked each cell for sufficient water. Your Kohler should have a 20-amp charge system. Your Regulator/Rectifier could be bad, or one or more phases of your alternator could be shorted to ground.

Here is the Service Manual for your Kohler 750 EFI engine: Start on page 83, and do the outlined testing. Genuine Kohler replacement parts are available here: And here is your parts manual: Note that Intimidator is the manufacturer of your Mahindra. In the future, Boot, be wary of a company that rebrands someone else’s Zooter as its own. Dealers don’t know how to service them. Dismissed!


Dear Sarge,

I have a 2007 Arctic Cat H1 650 Prowler. I am in the middle of a restoration because it had been sitting in a barn for years, an inch deep in pigeon doo-doo! The one thing that baffles me is how the heck does Arctic Cat expect you to remove the bolt-on sump without pulling the engine? The plastic oil pump gears disintegrated and lunched the top end. It was placed in the barn for years. I want to remove any pieces from the oil sump screen. Two of the Torx screws are directly above a frame cross member, and I can’t get a ratchet in to loosen them up.

Wayne Margeson

Lanesville, Indiana

Private Margie, that is a common problem with the H1 engines. Possibly AC would have helped with the repair bill back in the day, but since it was “ridden hard and put away wet,” you will have to foot the bill yourself. I suspect you already knew that! If you requisition a 1/4-inch box-end wrench from Supply, it will just fit over the T27 Torx hex bit. Make sure the Torx head recess is clean and insert the bit. Hold the box wrench up with a large screwdriver or pry bar, putting pressure on the Torx screw. Finally, use another larger box wrench on the open jaw of the 1/4-inch wrench for extra leverage and it should break free. For the duration of this restoration, Boot, you are moved to head of the chow line! Dismissed!

See more tech advice from Sarge McCoy, the Troubleshooter here:

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