–THE TROUBLESHOOTER COMES TO YOUR RESCUE —
By Sarge McCoy
IF YOU CAN’T STAND THE HEAT, THEN GET OUT OF THE RANGER 570!
This summer I purchased a Polaris Ranger 570 to use around the farm for work and some recreation. The engine heat in the cab is so strong on the passenger side that it’s uncomfortable for the passenger. Since it holds three people, I imagine it would be worse for the middle rider. Why isn’t this dealt with at the factory level?
Lake Butler, Florida
Private Tino, over the years there have been minor changes and things have improved somewhat, but it will take a rethink how the Zooter is put together to solve the problem. For now, you will have to do the work of the Polaris engineers and rework the airflow and heat shielding to help passengers enjoy your Zooter, Boot. Switching to another brand may not help because so many UTVs are basically designed the same. Some are better than others, but the heat problem is present in most recreation utility Zooters, except the all-electric models! You can use exhaust wrap on the exhaust pipe to keep exhaust heat out of the engine compartment. That helps to a certain extent. The downside is increased corrosion of the pipe. There are various kits to cover the holes where hot air leaks into the cab. No downsides here. You can add extra reflective insulation to the underside of the passenger compartment. Again, no downsides other than the amount of time to disassemble everything and re-assemble. What really helps is installing a fan, such as a 4-inch boat bilge fan, to the engine compartment to suck in fresh, cool air and force out hot air. The downside is the high-speed fan noise. Remember, the larger the fan, the quieter the fan. Finally, some people have increased and directed the hot airflow through and away from the radiator and not against the passenger compartment. If you relocate the radiator behind the seats, there is far less heat under the hood to leach through to the passengers. All of this can and has been done successfully. Should you have to do it? No! However, my tried-and-true recommendations are the only way passengers will enjoy your Zooter in hot weather, because you will not see any factory seriously undertake cab-heat reduction given the number of Zooters sold and the expense involved in retrofits. Report to Elliott’s Beach at 1200 hours, Boot, with tweezers. I want that beach cleared of sand fleas! Dismissed!
IS JUMPING ON A BATTERY THE SAME AS JUMP-STARTING?
I own an ’08 RZR 800, and the OEM battery went bad at eight months. No warranty, so I went looking for a better battery. I next tried the AGM PC925L Odyssey, which gets the job done. But at six years, it was getting a bit weak. When I saw the Deltran LI/ON BTL24A360C battery with more power in a smaller, lighter package, I jumped on it! This battery is just fine, except for the fact it cannot stand the cold. I like to ride all year round when conditions permit, but as soon as the temps were consistently below 40 degrees, forget about it! This battery loses all power, will not accept a charge (shows 100 percent) and certainly will not crank over the engine. I had it replaced under warranty by Deltran. Now 18 months later, the same thing is happening again—no power and you cannot recharge the battery because Deltran’s own battery charger states the battery is at full charge. Sarge, do you know what is going on here?
Private Furball, I have a lot of experience with the Deltran Battery Tender solid-state batteries, so you asked the right person, Boot! The size you chose has had some problems. The smaller batteries work as advertised, but the BTL24A360C battery has demonstrated your exact symptoms. They indicate a full charge, do not accept a charge and never will. Initially, I laid the blame on the internal electronic board that allows the solid-state lithium-iron phosphate cells to charge from a conventional Zooter charging system; however, this is not the case. After removing the battery tops of “bad” BTL24A360C batteries and examining the insides, you can instantly see and smell the burnt cells. The electronic boards are fine, and the solid-state cells are toast. In my opinion, Private Furball, the solid-state batteries, at least in this size, are not robust enough for UTV use. I suggest you look into Yuasa’s AGM batteries, or go back to the AGM PC925L Odyssey battery. They have demonstrated their robustness in Zooter use for thousands of customers, and here is why: in an AGM, or Absorbed Glass Mat battery, the acid is absorbed between the plates and immobilized by a very fine fiberglass mat. This glass mat keeps the acid surrounding the plates, which allows a fast reaction between the acid and plate material. Because the AGM battery has an extremely low internal electrical resistance, it can deliver a higher rate of discharge. Plus, the AGM battery can be charged by conventional Zooter charging systems without the need for any on-board electronic board, and it’s rated to -40 degree Fahrenheit. Remember, the latest tech isn’t always the best for all applications, Boot—just like a jackknife works when a fancy potato peeler breaks. And, you can become proficient preparing spuds in the mess tent tonight, Boot! Dismissed!
Got a problem with your machine? Tell Sarge McCoy and he’ll provide the answers on how to fix it. Send E-mails to “Sarge” at [email protected]