Dear Sarge,

I have an old faithful Ranger 700 Crew circa 2008. Our last night ride after the chores were done ended abruptly when my son drove over a fallen log and one of the branches punctured the Ranger’s radiator. We took the radiator to the local radiator shop, but they said it could not be repaired. It was too badly damaged. So, I sent my son to the dealer for a replacement radiator. He called me and said that the parts guy wants $484.99 for a replacement radiator! I told my son, “No way!” My son suggested I contact you. is there a source for used utv parts bargains?

Dennis and Larry Denisha

Banks, Idaho

Boot, the best sources of used utv parts bargains are listed in UTV Action! A good, used, genuine Polaris radiator could cost as little as $35! Contact Power Sports Nation: or

See how Power Sports Nation offers such a huge selection of used UTV parts bargains here

Make your son purchase the radiator and install it following the factory shop manual here:×4-crew-service-manual.html. It will cost your son another $9.95! After the radiator is installed, filled, bled and tested, then he can drop and count off 50! Dismissed!


Dear Sarge,

I was recently involved in a forum discussion of waterproof greases for my RZR. Several people swore by something they called “Green Grease.” I stopped by my dealer, as well as the local auto-parts place and asked for this “Green Grease.” Both places said, “Huh?! Green Grease?”

Terry Kincaid

Attica, Indiana

Private Band-Aid, what the keyboard jockeys are talking about is the colloquialism for what is called “marine” grease. Why? Because, Boot, the grease is green! Now, to muddy the waters further, there actually is a waterproof, synthetic polymer grease called “Green Grease.” See here:

It can be ordered from them as well, as it is carried by O’Reilly Auto Parts, Auto Zone, Advance Auto Parts, Pep Boys and Bass Pro Shops. It meets my requirements for filling a Zerk fitting on any Zooter, Boot. Count off 25, Boot, for this valuable information! Dismissed!


Dear Sarge,

I have a 2017 Can-Am Maverick X3, and I have a lug-nut problem. I purchased this “Zooter” used and did some upgrades. I installed a pre-mounted tire and wheelset off of eBay. They are DWT Starfighter beadlocks with 30/14 Skat Trak nine paddles. I think this was a great upgrade for my “Zooter” for duning. However, even though I torque the lug nuts to the recommended 74 pound-feet, the lug nuts still loosen up. I read on the Maverick forum that the racers torque to 110 pound-feet. That sounds a bit high. What torque do you recommend, Sarge?

Dennis Waterman

Brawley, California

First off, Private Waterworks, being a used Zooter and a sport Zooter, how do you know your hub studs are not stretched and/or the threads are bad? Same for the factory lug nuts. In my experience, Boot, I would never torque Douglas wheels less than 100 pound-feet, and I would never use stock lug nuts on them! Requisition a set of DWT lug nuts, because I suspect the taper of your lug nuts doesn’t quite match the taper of your DWT Starfighter beadlocks. If the tapers don’t exactly match, the lug nuts will work themselves loose. Boot, you are to report to the motor pool at 0800 hours to change some LAV wheels, since you are so good at tightening lug nuts! Dismissed!


Dear Sarge,

I am having a recurring problem with my 2017 XP 900 Ranger. I haul a lot of gravel with my Ranger, and when I release the latch to dump the load, when the bed reaches full extension, the aluminum end of the gas strut apparently takes all the force, and the thin side walls crack and break. I have tried the so-called High Desert Solutions heavy-duty bed rod end. That only lasted two weeks. Sarge, is there a steel version that will hold up?

Tom Side

Bruce, Wisconsin

Private Sideways, you do realize the High Desert Solutions heavy-duty bed rod end also comes with a limit cable to take the force off the shock end, right? See here: The cable, with their stronger strut end, should solve your breakage problems. However, if you have your little heart set on a steel end, then I will show you how to make your own. First, you have to determine the size of your strut’s threaded end. For a 2017, it most likely is a 6mm (but it could also be an 8mm). You either need access to a welder and a drill or have a machine shop make one for you. You will need 2x 6mm or 8mm nuts, 1/2-inch nut, 33/64-inch drill bit, and a 6mm or 8mm bolt. Spin the two nuts onto the bolt. Tighten them together. Weld them together. Remove the bolt. Weld the nuts to the side of the 1/2-inch nut, creating an eyelet. Drill out the 1/2-inch nut’s threads with the 33/64-inch drill bit. Clean it. Paint it. Install it on the gas shock shaft. That one will not break! Those are your two choices, Boot! And, if you follow the unofficial motto of the Marines—“Improvise, adapt, and overcome”—I know which choice you will choose! Dismissed! 

You can write to Sarge at Trou­ble­shooter, ATV Action, P.O. Box 957, Valencia, CA 91380-9057 or via e-mail: [email protected]. When sending e-mail, you must include full name, city and state. Also, be sure to put “SARGE!” in the subject line.

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