YAMAHA WOLVERINE SWAY BARS

YAMAHA WOLVERINE SWAY BARS & X2 VS X4, CONNECT VS. DISCONNECT

Dear Sarge,

In our small riding group we have several Yamaha Wolverine X2s and X4s. We have experimented with removing Yamaha Wolverine sway bars to improve ride quality. However, when both front and rear sway bars are disconnected riding off-camber creek beds, the X4s feel like they want to tip over more than the X2s. The X4 owners have resorted to reconnecting the rear sway bars and have been more satisfied with that setup than both disconnected. The X2 owners have found less roll with both the front and rear bars disconnected and are going with that setup currently. Sarge, can you explain why this is? And, maybe a better setup than we have now as far as control versus comfort.

Kevin Connors

West Cameron, Pennsylvania

Personally, if I wanted comfort, I would stay in bed! I prefer the thrill! But, since you asked, it should be obvious why the X4 Zooter owners reconnected their sway bars! The X4 Zooters are more top-heavy than the X2s! Thus, they benefit from a sway bar more than the lower-CG (center of gravity) X2 Zooters. Here are a couple of tips to allow you to reconnect your Yamaha Wolverine sway bars, yet retain your important comfort. Remove the sway bars from the bushings. You may well find the bars seized in the bushings. This is the root cause of your sway-bar problem. Wrap the sway bar in Teflon or HDPE tape in the area that is inside the bushings. When reinstalling the bushing mounts, insert a single washer on only one bolt against the frame. This will loosen the bushings’ grip on the sway bar enough to allow unrestricted movement. The tape will prevent the bushing from seizing on the sway bar again. You should now find your suspension free to move without binding, and you have restored full sway-bar protection. I think a night run through the O-Course will allow you to balance your “control versus comfort”! Dismissed!

See UTV Action’s full test on the Wolverine X2 SE here: YAMAHA WOLVERINE X2 SE – UTV Action Magazine

WHEEL-BEARING LIFE

Dear Sarge,

Are you aware of any problems with the 2020 Polaris XP Turbo front wheel bearings? I do mostly dune and desert riding, and I got about 1500 miles on the factory set and only three days from a set I purchased from Amazon! I traded in my RZR XP 900, and I was getting over 3500 miles per set. The front wheel bearings are getting loose again, and I know I will need another set in the near future. Why is there such a difference in wheel bearings between the 900 and the 1000?

Conrad Anderson

Pahrump, Nevada

Private Sundown, it is not just the difference in displacement. It is the horsepower difference, the speed difference, the bearing-quality difference and the lubrication (if any) difference! Number one, Boot, sand and bearings don’t mix! Number two, speed matters. The faster you go, the more your bearings are loaded. Number three, with added horsepower comes higher bearing load. See number two! Number three, Amazon wheel bearings. I would bet a month’s pay, Boot, that they originated in China and were some brand name you never heard of. Stick with the main players in ball or roller bearings, like NSK, NTN, SKF, Timken and PFI. True story time, Boot. There once was a company that, to save money, installed cheap bearings in their equipment. So, after spending thousands of pay on their equipment, the unit screeched because of the bearings. The fix was to disassemble the unit and replace all the bearings with quality bearings. And guess what, Boot? The screech stopped! Number four, lubrication—or the lack of it! What happens when the factory grease has used up its oil and turns hard, Boot? Do you ever grease your wheel bearings? Didn’t think so! Premium bearings come from the factory with the correct amount of high-quality bearing grease. Inferior bearings will come with little to no grease or cheap grease that won’t hold up in the long run as you have seen. I would suggest you requisition a piece of equipment like the UTV, Inc. Polaris sealed wheel-bearing greasing tool here: https://www.utvinc.com/utv-
inc-polaris-sealed-wheel-bearing-
greaser-tool/.html. And, use it regularly, Boot! Or, requisition a 1/8-inch grease Zerk fitting and a 1/8-inch drill bit, and a tap set, like the “Irwin Hanson 2-pack SAE tap and drill set with a 1/4-inch 20 NC tap and #7 drill bit, so you can drill and tap your wheel hubs yourself. Just remember to remove the inner bearing seals so the grease will get inside the bearings. Boot, you are now on report for not greasing your wheel bearings and for purchasing a substandard kit. And, I suggest you do a field day on your Zooter! One drop of grease anywhere and you will be mowing the perimeter fence with kitchen shears! Dismissed!

PRO XD THROTTLE PROBLEM

Dear Sarge,

We have a 2020 Polaris Pro XD 4000G. It is used extensively on our various job sites, mainly moving people and towing a utility trailer full of pipe. Recently, we have had a problem with the machine not returning to idle and a near miss due to not being able to get the machine stopped! The local service center sent someone out but could not locate the problem. One of the workers suggested that you could diagnose and solve our problem. Any help would be appreciated.

Donny Adair

Regina, Saskatchewan, Canada

Private Airhead, it would be nice if the commercial side communicated to its customers like the consumer side does. You have an official Polaris recall on your throttle-pedal assembly that can cause the throttle to stick or slowly release. The Polaris recall number is (800) 765-2747 (7 am to 7 pm CST) or visit their website at https://www.polaris
.com/en-us/off-road-recalls/. The model number and VIN of your commercial Zooter are printed on the left rear frame under the cargo box. Your worker deserves a day off with pay! Dismissed! 

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